When I???m interviewed about men???s style and Put This On, I???m almost invariably asked ???what are the fashion mistakes you see men make every day???? or ???what is the most basic style knowledge men often don???t have????
That???s the kind of stuff I usually leave off this blog. After all: you???re discerning and tasteful! But every time I see some incredibly basic principle violated, I cringe. So: for the benefit of your slovenly coworker our your teenage cousin or your uncle who???s never had a job, I wrote this. Forward it to them. Anonymously, if you must.
Below are twenty-five pieces of vital information that every man over 14 in the Western world should know. Every man. No excuses. Seriously. Seriously.
Unbutton the bottom button of your jacket. It???s not intended to be buttoned.
Same goes for your vest.
Remove the tags on the sleeves of your jacket before you wear it.
Jackets sometimes come with white basting thread on their shoulders or holding closed their vents. Remove this thread before wearing the jacket.
Jacket pockets are intended to be opened. Use a small scissor or seam ripper.
More than three jacket buttons is never appropriate for anything.
On a three-button coat, buttoning the top button is optional, and some lapels are rolled so as to make the top button ornamental. In other words: if buttoning the top button seems wrong, it is.
Brown shoes, brown belt. Black shoes, black belt.
Belt or suspenders. Never belt and suspenders.
Your jacket sleeve should be short enough to show some shirt cuff - about half an inch.
Your pants should end at your shoes without puddling. A slight or half break means that there is one modest inflection point in the front crease. If your pants break both front and back or if they break on the sides, they???re too long.
Your coat should follow and flatter the lines of your upper body, not pool around them. You should be able to slip a hand in to get to your inside breast pocket, but if the jacket???s closed and you can pound your heart with your fist, it???s too big.
When you buy a suit or sportcoat, it should be altered to fit by a tailor. This will cost between $25 and $100.
Your tie should reach your belt line - it shouldn???t end above your belt or below it.
Your tie knot should have a dimple.
Only wear a tie if you???re also wearing a suit or sportcoat (or, very casually, a sweater). Shirt, tie and no jacket is the wedding uniform of a nine-year-old.
The only men who should wear black suits during the day are priests, undertakers, secret agents, funerals attendees and yokels.
Cell phone holsters are horrible.
So are square-toed shoes.
Never wear visible socks with shorts.
Or any socks with sandals.
If your shirt is tucked in, you should be wearing a belt (or suspenders, if you???re wearing a jacket as well, or your trousers should have side adjusters and no belt loops).
Flip flops are great for the pool and the beach and not great for anything else. (Some say this is a matter of taste. We agree. If you have any taste, you will only wear flip-flops at the beach or pool.)
Long ties are not appropriate with a tuxedo.
Never wear polyester outside of the gym or theme parties.
If you see someone violating one of these basic principles, feel free to send them our way. We???ll straighten them out.
Despite what my posts might indicate, I think fashion rules are lame.
One day, I'll see a guy make white socks with black shoes and pants look like the best thing I've seen all year. Until then, it's common sense, personal taste and a culturally biased palate.
Most of the above rules are pretty much beyond contest, though--it's not arbitrary schitt like do/don't leave a button undone if you have functioning surgeon's cuffs on your jacket. I mean, you just can't make case for leaving the jacket vents stitched up with that toothfloss-looking thread that it comes with.
Honestly, 99% of men are nowhere near the level of having learned the rules sufficiently to be able to break them gracefully. Especially on this forum. I seen the pictures dudes poast and they are not exactly Nick Wooster or Luca Rubinacci. Dudes are wearing, like, khakis, a black shirt and a red tie with dice printed on it.
Most of the above rules are pretty much beyond contest, though--it's not arbitrary schitt like do/don't leave a button undone if you have functioning surgeon's cuffs on your jacket. I mean, you just can't make case for leaving the jacket vents stitched up with that toothfloss-looking thread that it comes with.
Honestly, 99% of men are nowhere near the level of having learned the rules sufficiently to be able to break them gracefully.
Yes, what he said. I'm all for breaking rules, taking risks and doing what the $%&* one wants to do, but there's a lot of common sense in those rules.
It all boils down to personal style and "I don't give a f***ness," though. If you can look good with that floss keeping your flaps from flappin', more power to you. Price tag hangin' off Mike Bivin's Starter cap was fly for him. (I still think that 'leaving the New Era sticker on' look is stupid though.)
faux_rillz said:
Especially on this forum. I seen the pictures dudes poast and they are not exactly Nick Wooster or Luca Rubinacci. Dudes are wearing, like, khakis, a black shirt and a red tie with dice printed on it.
C'mon holmes, ESPECIALLY on this forum?? Why do you hate Soul Strut(ters) so much?!
While I'm at it... Bassie, why do your posts indicate one thing if you feel another way?
Theres nothin wrong with this on a casual level. Not for wedding or big events.
My man TripleDouble STAYS fly.
lol
the problems i have with this is the light denin with dark denim combo. i dont do that.
and i dont do shirts with collar buttons. i hatt those thangs.
besides that, its fine by me in general.
Theres nothin wrong with this on a casual level. Not for wedding or big events.
My man TripleDouble STAYS fly.
lol
the problems i have with this is the light denin with dark denim combo. i dont do that.
and i dont do shirts with collar buttons. i hatt those thangs.
besides that, its fine by me in general.
this blog wins the nicole kidman award for excellence in the field of beards.
Theres nothin wrong with this on a casual level. Not for wedding or big events.
My man TripleDouble STAYS fly.
lol
the problems i have with this is the light denin with dark denim combo. i dont do that.
and i dont do shirts with collar buttons. i hatt those thangs.
besides that, its fine by me in general.
this blog wins the nicole kidman award for excellence in the field of beards.
Most of the above rules are pretty much beyond contest, though--it's not arbitrary schitt like do/don't leave a button undone if you have functioning surgeon's cuffs on your jacket. I mean, you just can't make case for leaving the jacket vents stitched up with that toothfloss-looking thread that it comes with.
Honestly, 99% of men are nowhere near the level of having learned the rules sufficiently to be able to break them gracefully.
Yes, what he said. I'm all for breaking rules, taking risks and doing what the $%&* one wants to do, but there's a lot of common sense in those rules.
It all boils down to personal style and "I don't give a f***ness," though. If you can look good with that floss keeping your flaps from flappin', more power to you. Price tag hangin' off Mike Bivin's Starter cap was fly for him. (I still think that 'leaving the New Era sticker on' look is stupid though.)
faux_rillz said:
Especially on this forum. I seen the pictures dudes poast and they are not exactly Nick Wooster or Luca Rubinacci. Dudes are wearing, like, khakis, a black shirt and a red tie with dice printed on it.
C'mon holmes, ESPECIALLY on this forum?? Why do you hate Soul Strut(ters) so much?!
I don't hate dudes at all. I'm just saying--with some exceptions--there's a reason why dudes are racking up thousands of poasts here rather than on styleforum. There's a reason why we don't have a running WIWT thread. People have different priorities, and most dudes here are intensely focused on things other than menswear. There was once a "ties" thread and the pics poasted within were nothing short of gruesome.
Theres nothin wrong with this on a casual level. Not for wedding or big events.
My man TripleDouble STAYS fly.
lol
the problems i have with this is the light denin with dark denim combo. i dont do that.
and i dont do shirts with collar buttons.
I don't like them, either, but they do at least have a function--to keep your collar in place when you're not wearing a tie and when you're wearing something over your shirt, like a blazer or sweater, that could push the collar around.
Most of the above rules are pretty much beyond contest, though--it's not arbitrary schitt like do/don't leave a button undone if you have functioning surgeon's cuffs on your jacket. I mean, you just can't make case for leaving the jacket vents stitched up with that toothfloss-looking thread that it comes with.
Honestly, 99% of men are nowhere near the level of having learned the rules sufficiently to be able to break them gracefully.
Yes, what he said. I'm all for breaking rules, taking risks and doing what the $%&* one wants to do, but there's a lot of common sense in those rules.
It all boils down to personal style and "I don't give a f***ness," though. If you can look good with that floss keeping your flaps from flappin', more power to you. Price tag hangin' off Mike Bivin's Starter cap was fly for him. (I still think that 'leaving the New Era sticker on' look is stupid though.)
faux_rillz said:
Especially on this forum. I seen the pictures dudes poast and they are not exactly Nick Wooster or Luca Rubinacci. Dudes are wearing, like, khakis, a black shirt and a red tie with dice printed on it.
C'mon holmes, ESPECIALLY on this forum?? Why do you hate Soul Strut(ters) so much?!
I don't hate dudes at all. I'm just saying--with some exceptions--there's a reason why dudes are racking up thousands of poasts here rather than on styleforum. There's a reason why we don't have a running WIWT thread. People have different priorities, and most dudes here are intensely focused on things other than menswear. There was once a "ties" thread and the pics poasted within were nothing short of gruesome.
Ah okay. To this day, this is the only forum I participate (or check, for that matter - save for the ones that I stumble on via Google searches), so I never really know what type of fashion discussions occur on other boards. Other than the "killin' it" thread, I don't see many pics people post of themselves here.
i rock a watch. tout fini. i have a white one, a black one, a red one, a FLAT black one, and then golds and steel cased joints. anything outside of that just isn't for me. rocking one of those paper bracelets from some indie show is horrific..... you look like you just got back from summer camp.
i dont understand the purpose of a tie thread either...... my tie game consists of about 15 solid colors. not much more to that really, one post and out.
Playing devil's advocate: I find myself wondering how often the answer to this question is really likely to be "Wear a woven bracelet, holmes."
Hippie dude in the photo looks all right. He's wearing it well. He looks like a bicycle owner, though, which is a turn-off for me. Would not holler.
WIWT: ashy deck shoes, some bogus jeans, and a shirt that I think used to have a Chaps ("Coulda Had A Polo Shirt") tag on it before I razored it off. The look is either "marina panhandler" or "bookish roofer," depending on the lighting situation.
I, too, remember the infamous Soulstrut Tie Thread. Heavy "It came packaged with the shirt" vibes. My cousin Rob has somewhere deep in his chifforobe an imitation-silk jernt with Mister Peanut on it, and during our increasingly infrequent family get-togethers I'm always like, "Hey, let me get that." But now that he knows I want it, he's all being a dick about it. You know how it goes.
I'm excited to be marrying a fashion student, so I can cede responsibility for non-casual fashion decisions. If dudes are really curious about the process, I could tell you a bit about croquis, mood boards, flats, and finishes.
But I won't. 'Cause I'm really not trying to get any deeper into it than I already am. Mood boards, dudes. I'm a 33-year-old man talmbout mood boards. Nobody wants that.
the rule with buttoning mens suit jacket buttons has always been, from top button on down:
always
sometimes
never
in that order.
re blogging, here in ny, there are a zillion style bloggers, way too much of it. and i have worked in fashion so i have seen it over time. they have a uniform of jeffrey campbell platforms and a maxi skirt and crop top at least among women that is
yawn, it's everywhere. too much fashion, too many designers, too much spectator culture for me either way
the rule with buttoning mens suit jacket buttons has always been, from top button on down:
always
sometimes
never
in that order.
re blogging, here in ny, there are a zillion style bloggers, way too much of it. and i have worked in fashion so i have seen it over time. they have a uniform of jeffrey campbell platforms and a maxi skirt and crop top at least among women that is
yawn, it's everywhere. too much fashion, too many designers, too much spectator culture for me either way
Comments
If it has side tabs rather than belt loops, but belt loops flapping on the breeze look pretty sloppy IMO.
Most of the above rules are pretty much beyond contest, though--it's not arbitrary schitt like do/don't leave a button undone if you have functioning surgeon's cuffs on your jacket. I mean, you just can't make case for leaving the jacket vents stitched up with that toothfloss-looking thread that it comes with.
Honestly, 99% of men are nowhere near the level of having learned the rules sufficiently to be able to break them gracefully. Especially on this forum. I seen the pictures dudes poast and they are not exactly Nick Wooster or Luca Rubinacci. Dudes are wearing, like, khakis, a black shirt and a red tie with dice printed on it.
Yes, what he said. I'm all for breaking rules, taking risks and doing what the $%&* one wants to do, but there's a lot of common sense in those rules.
It all boils down to personal style and "I don't give a f***ness," though. If you can look good with that floss keeping your flaps from flappin', more power to you. Price tag hangin' off Mike Bivin's Starter cap was fly for him. (I still think that 'leaving the New Era sticker on' look is stupid though.)
C'mon holmes, ESPECIALLY on this forum?? Why do you hate Soul Strut(ters) so much?!
While I'm at it... Bassie, why do your posts indicate one thing if you feel another way?
My man TripleDouble STAYS fly.
lol
the problems i have with this is the light denin with dark denim combo. i dont do that.
and i dont do shirts with collar buttons. i hatt those thangs.
besides that, its fine by me in general.
this blog wins the nicole kidman award for excellence in the field of beards.
this blog wins the nicole kidman award for excellence in the field of beards.
I don't hate dudes at all. I'm just saying--with some exceptions--there's a reason why dudes are racking up thousands of poasts here rather than on styleforum. There's a reason why we don't have a running WIWT thread. People have different priorities, and most dudes here are intensely focused on things other than menswear. There was once a "ties" thread and the pics poasted within were nothing short of gruesome.
I don't like them, either, but they do at least have a function--to keep your collar in place when you're not wearing a tie and when you're wearing something over your shirt, like a blazer or sweater, that could push the collar around.
This dude is failing on both counts.
Also: steezy band overdose
The tie colour does not compliment at all.
And lose the ratty string craps on your wrist.
Is that a masking tape bracelet in there, too?
Ah okay. To this day, this is the only forum I participate (or check, for that matter - save for the ones that I stumble on via Google searches), so I never really know what type of fashion discussions occur on other boards. Other than the "killin' it" thread, I don't see many pics people post of themselves here.
Probably:
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/08/25/fashion/bracelets-for-men-in-earthy-materials-noticed.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=men's-bracelets&st=cse
I rock some beads on the left wrist. Haven't worn a watch in months and I have some pretty decent ones.
Hideous.
So you don't want to trade friendship bracelets with me?
i dont understand the purpose of a tie thread either...... my tie game consists of about 15 solid colors. not much more to that really, one post and out.
(Do they have a His version?)
Hippie dude in the photo looks all right. He's wearing it well. He looks like a bicycle owner, though, which is a turn-off for me. Would not holler.
WIWT: ashy deck shoes, some bogus jeans, and a shirt that I think used to have a Chaps ("Coulda Had A Polo Shirt") tag on it before I razored it off. The look is either "marina panhandler" or "bookish roofer," depending on the lighting situation.
I, too, remember the infamous Soulstrut Tie Thread. Heavy "It came packaged with the shirt" vibes. My cousin Rob has somewhere deep in his chifforobe an imitation-silk jernt with Mister Peanut on it, and during our increasingly infrequent family get-togethers I'm always like, "Hey, let me get that." But now that he knows I want it, he's all being a dick about it. You know how it goes.
Dudes all flashing matching pocket squares tawmbout "my pimp game is on point!"
& I used to like this tumblr also but they seem to be awol - http://hitthehay.tumblr.com/
Guido Wongolini
I do not--but I look at it occasionally.
http://www.thestyleblogger.com/4899/borrowing-from-her-closet-featuring-karyn-bailey/
"Borrowing from Her Closet"
But I won't. 'Cause I'm really not trying to get any deeper into it than I already am. Mood boards, dudes. I'm a 33-year-old man talmbout mood boards. Nobody wants that.
Indeed.
From his expression, I can only assume he is looking at the full length mirror just outside of the shot.
I'm not too worried about it. In case you didn't know, I don't really plan on pimpin' hoes.
But I bet if the man knew I had this, he'd have his girls weave up a few and slang 'em for $40 a pop.
I'd rock that print. Sans mandals and orange pants, of course. I ain't scared.
always
sometimes
never
in that order.
re blogging, here in ny, there are a zillion style bloggers, way too much of it. and i have worked in fashion so i have seen it over time. they have a uniform of jeffrey campbell platforms and a maxi skirt and crop top at least among women that is
yawn, it's everywhere. too much fashion, too many designers, too much spectator culture for me either way
ALL THRIFT STORE EVERYTHING.
(Is the way to go, I mean.)