Crazy surfing-related story (for Birdman)
hogginthefogg
6,098 Posts
Master surfer cheats death in biggest swell of season at Maverick's[/b]http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/12/11/MN4ITQULT.DTLI can't believe he lived to
Comments
I've had 6-foot waves at Huntington toss me around like a ragdoll. Couldn't even begin to imagine the terror a Maverick's wave could inflict...
Damn.
Reading the article, I can't believe that I missed that Jay Moriarty (who made the cover of Surfer catching a bad one at Maverick's when he was just 16) was killed doing free-diving. That is some sad shit.
Thanks for the post, Ross!
It says in the article that they were towing in. I think Maverick's is usually a long paddle though.
It was pretty big out here last week - over 20 feet, waves over the highway. The tow-in dudes were out the first couple days of the swell but the last two or three days were just nasty. It's back down again now.
Yeah ... the article does say "the waves were so big that paddle-surfing, the style featured in the upcoming Maverick's competition, was out of the question. This was strictly for tow-surfing - the act of being whipped into a wave at high speed, water-ski style, by a partner aboard a personal watercraft."
Regardless ... damn.
some guys were paddling in to the smaller ones, but it was mainly a tow session.
during the same swell a guy died at 'ghost trees'...
http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/article_bamp.cfm?id=12693
a pic from that session...
that doesnt even look real.
http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/video_player.cfm?id=12653
my friend used to work at Pacific Drive shop (skateboarding/serfing/snowboarding)
and had all these crazy stories about the surf team and a bunch of the riders goin surfin in the ocean on lsd and shrooms! that sounds soo crazy
seriously
oooo wype owwt!
I know plenty of folks who climb stoned, the sort of climbing where the margin for error is zero. Personally, that doesn't work for me at all. I'm king of the world for ten minutes and then I just want to watch the leaves.