Strictly Debonair Shit
Bambouche
1,484 Posts
A few questions for the few International Men of Stylish Grace on this board:
- WHEN BUYING A SUIT... A DAMN CHARMING SUIT[/b]
- Is it customary to tip a personal shopper and/or custom tailor (when the suit cost wins you a 'free' job from the boutique's custom tailor not employed by the boutique)?
- If so, what's an appropriate tip (assuming the bill is over 2k)?
- Cufflinks or not? (Yea, I saw Ross Hogg's comment, which makes sense, but this is a question of One-Time Sighting of A Punker in Stunning Elegance and not some Mr. Dapper Daily Digger type shit.)
Comments
Dapper Daily Digger, ha!!!
I've never known of a tip requirement for a personal tailor (since you'll pay a grip for a tailored suit). Usually, the tailoring is figured into the cost. And oh yes, cufflinks are a must
Peace,
Big Stacks from Kakalak
(And this should go without saying, but NO PLEATS IN YOUR PANTS. Save the accordions for Cinco de Mayo.)
And I'm gonna page you about that other thing this weekend--I'm stoked!
Dude? If you don't know me by now... This ain't some office job interview. Pleats? PLEATS? But seriously, I don't think this place even stocks such a thing.
My shopper dude told me I had "gorgeous eyes" while he was pinning my pants. (Delicious!)
Sorry, I didn't explain. There is an in-house tailor, but my personal shopper suggested their 'top tier' tailor. Mostly because my size (stupid tall and way skinny) demands excessive attention in the pants arena. And partly because this shit needs to look tits. My dude understood that, so he will accompany me to the hot shot tailor and oversee the whole thing.
My shirt can accomodate the french links, as you suggest. Thanks for the tips. I appreciate it.
Did you infinitesimally tiny dudes catch that?
The boy's fingernails are immaculately groomed these days, as all his dusty dutty digging duties have been outsourced--along with all matters of haberdashery--to said manservant.
You can attempt to get on his level, but you'll need a stepladder--and, in all likelihood, a boost--to even approach it.
While messers Rillz and 'Che share a similar penchant for well-groomed fingernails, they both still paint them black as well.
Try pulling that shit off at your local law firm or yacht party. HIS GOTH GAME? YOU GOTTA RESPECT IT, YO.
We did go to CLOAK at the recommendation of our designer friend. She said their suits might suit me. Man, have you been in there?
T-Shirts with smeary Jesus faces on them for $300. WTF?!
Their suits were like formal attire for underwater bondage orgies. Weird all black leather shit. The store browse was as short as possible without seeming impolite. The goth "industry" has stepped it's game up since the heyday of Cloves and Doc Martins.
When we left I questioned what said designer friend thought I was all about. Black leather smoking jacket with rubber pants. What.The.Fuck.
File Under: Strictly
DebonairD&D ShitFrench cuffs, that is a cuff which requires cufflinksa, are always good style unless you use ostentatious cuff links.
Pleats exist for a reason; if you're a large man they make you look thinner and enhance your profile. Slender folks like us have no use for them. The real thing to remember in these days of mediocre tailors is that no pleat means no cuff (unless you wear the pants with a dinner jacket, i.e. a tuxedo).
I'm much too lil dude to have bespoke suits, but I have a tailor that makes sure everything off the rack fits like it should (and, where possible, gives my jackets ridiculously pretentious, but absurdly elegant surgeon cuffs). I've never tipped him because it never seems necessary or expected. I'm not sure what is appropriate in your context.
If I can offer you any advice--and this comes from a fellow who's spent altogether too much time thinking about these matters--it's that you must ensure your jacket sleeves fit properly. When your arms are straight along your side, you should see shirt, at least a quarter inch beneath the jacket. It's scandalously common to see jackets worn by people who should know better with arms that are too long. Don't listen to what the tailor says on this matter; make sure you can see shirt!
I can go on for hours about this stuff, PM me if you want any tailoring advice.
Whenever I'm next in NY will you invite me to a yacht party?
The last (and first, now that I think of it) time I saw a tailor was in 1989. I was asked to prom by a girl I was dating (she is now a photographer of bondage/fetish/transgender folks--Hello faux_grills!). This girl had extremely wealthy parents (like, welcome to our compound, complete with brooke-running-through-the-living-room and personal leather-bound library of classics complete with gold leaf pages and a grand piano in the "sitting room" type wealthy). It was really ridiculous. I was a dude living without a refridgerator or telephone, barely scraping by, and I suspect this girl asked me to accompany to her prom because I was so, like, not status quo, in her neighborhood.
She had to pay for everything. This made her rich parents furious. Her mom chartered a flight to her sister's house in another state, "for the weekend," so she wouldn't have to see her daughter "stoop" to such levels as to pay a scumfuck to take her to prom. I found it all amusing.
So, the only thing I had to do was get myself measured for the tux that her family's Parisian tailor was making for me. Well, I got a ride to one of the Selix joints in the mall, and the dude in there was all sorts of unfriendly. Said he wouldn't measure me unless I was gonna buy something. I tried another place, same shit. So my best friend (a bonafide psychopath) convinced me he could do it. "I just gotta measure your arms and inseam. No problem, man. Stand still."
We took the measurements with his mom's self-retracting Stanley, sent them off to the French dude, and forgot about it.
The morning of prom I show up at her house ("Where's your mom?") and we roll over to the tailor's shop. He takes one look at my tall skinny ass and starts freaking out. "Is no good. IS NO GOOD!" He forces me into the jacket and then starts screaming at me, "Of who gave these measurement? WHO?!" He was pissed. I told him my friend did it. He busted out his fabric tape measure and jammed it into my crotch, then around my waist, and then down my arm, and then shouted at us to leave because he had "much work to do before evening."
In the end it came out pretty nice. Considering the time constraints.
We rode in a limo to some fancy fucking restaurant with $500 plates (all comped by the head chef who knew her dad, or some such nonesense). We got to the prom and all her dumb high school girlfriends kept asking me if they could see the tattoos in my armpit. "Did it hurt?" "Don't you have to be 18 to get a tattoo?" "Can't you like, get AIDS, like, from that?" "Are you the guy who doesn't have a refridgerator?"
Then we boffed in the living room listening to the Twin Peaks soundtrack.
Oh, to be seventeen and rich!
INTERNATIONAL WATERS = WYLIN WITHOUT CONSEQUENCE
How old would she be now? Do you know if she's married? Getting hitched to someone wealthy is my career plan...
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She stayed with us last year. My girlfriend walked out and saw her shirtless and apologized for the intrusion, to which she replied, "It's okay, I'm a total naked girl."
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All I'm going to say is, I had no idea you were such a
Ball on, brother. Ball on.
I would also agree that tipping the tailor 10% is a good look. Tipping is always a good idea in these types of situations, because when you go back next time you don't get any little dude nonsense.
Now just wait a minute, sir.
I am proud to be the board's touchstone for all things goth-related, but why is it that the mere mention of "transgender folks" necessitates a shout-out to me?
If it's the boutique's custom tailor, you best believe he/she is getting money from the boutique, so definitely no tip on that front.
Are you paying the personal shopper? Is it a friend? If I were paying for a personal shopper, I'd expect them to handle everything for me...definitely no tip. If it's a friend, you can give a gift or buy dinner for him/her.
I think we all tip to much in general, so you can consider my answer the stingy one and wait for some more generous folk.
Did you check out seize sur vingt on Elizabeth for custom suits. They make beautiful, tasteful joints.
Surgery's complete then?
(Pants Me)
You make a good point. Shirts do very in cuff length, but it's generally more obvious when they are too short or too long than it is with jackets. I would also go shorter than the length you suggest, but not by much. I like my jackets with shorter arms especially since you rarely wear a jacket without a shirt underneath.
wait til you get in that rowboat, sailor...
AAAAYYOOOOO!