Clarks wallabees...brown oily leather (help pls)
Controller_7
4,052 Posts
Ok, so I found an online spot and got some new clarks on sale. I decided to try a new color so I got the Brown Oily Leather. 
They looked normal enough. They aren't blue and creme, but still.So I get them in the mail today and they are actually oily. I figured that was just a description of the material, but they are actually oily. Check the picture...they came wrapped in official clarks tissue paper (which you can see picked up some of the oil) and had this white cardboard divider that picked up a bunch of the oil. Looks like 
, but it's not doo doo, it's oil.
Is this normal? Isn't this oil going to get all over my pants? Am I supposed to wipe them down first?Someone drop some knowledge please. They have an easy return poilicy, so I'm cool. I just need to know if I need to send them back. Anybody had any experience with these? Any insight would be appreciated.
They looked normal enough. They aren't blue and creme, but still.So I get them in the mail today and they are actually oily. I figured that was just a description of the material, but they are actually oily. Check the picture...they came wrapped in official clarks tissue paper (which you can see picked up some of the oil) and had this white cardboard divider that picked up a bunch of the oil. Looks like , but it's not doo doo, it's oil.Is this normal? Isn't this oil going to get all over my pants? Am I supposed to wipe them down first?Someone drop some knowledge please. They have an easy return poilicy, so I'm cool. I just need to know if I need to send them back. Anybody had any experience with these? Any insight would be appreciated.
Comments
i'd try wiping them down first, do they seep through? like get your socks all oily too?
if you are looking for some different clarks try dyeing them shits, like blue and cream!
Leather Care
Good leather care is equivalent to good skin care. Leather consists of thousands and thousands of intertwined fibers, with penetrable pores throughout???just like skin.
Proper maintenance starts with cleaning the fibers. Cleaning removes fiber-severing abrasives and pore clogging dirt and dust, both of which will breakdown the leather over time and give it a less than pleasing texture and appearance. Brushing the surface lightly with a moderatly stiff brush will open up the pores of the leather letting your treatments soak in. Agitate, don't scrub.
The next step, probably even more important, is conditioning. This nourishes and moisturizes to lubricate individual fibers, keeping them from becoming brittle and dry. It replaces essential, natural oils that evaporate. How can you tell a good conditioner? A good conditioner will offer UV protection. Like human skin, ultra-violet rays will quickly cause deterioration of the leather and shorten its lifespan significantly. A good conditioner will be absorbed into the leather, not sit atop the surface or leave residue behind. The surface should not be oily after application. The very best conditioners are pH balanced, have stain repellants, waterproofing agents to protect from accidents.
Leather Facts
* Leather is tear and puncture-resistant.
* Leather protects from heat, cold and wind; and it repels moisture.
* Leather apparel stretches and molds to your body, yet at the same time retains its shape.
* Leather breathes -- that's what keeps it soft and supple.
Leather Protection
* Use a high-quality water and stain repellent to help prevent water stains and soiling. Look for a formula that is free of silicone and wax. These ingredients break down the natural oils in leather.
Apply immediately after purchasing your new leather item, and every two or three months with regular use.
**Inexpensive leather cleaners and conditioners will contain petroleum distillates, silicon or silicon oils, and gloss agents that deliver an inferior, greasy finish that does nothing for the leather, and transfers to anything that the leather comes in contact with. These chemicals are harmful to your leather.
* Avoid using cleaning fluid, shoe cream, saddle soap and mink oil. These products contain ingredients that may damage leather.
**It???s a popular notion that saddle soap is a good cleaner and conditioner. It is neither. Saddle soap originates from the 1800s as a product used in the final stages of tanning hides. A currier used the emulsion of oil in soap (saddle soap) to work into the leather to soften and condition it. The reason it doesn???t make a good conditioner is because it???s alkaline, not pH balanced. There are better modern emulsions which penetrate, soften and condition with greater ease and stability.
Alkalinity can abrade both the hide itself and the stitching which binds it. With all the great leather care products available at market; there is simply no reason to opt for saddle soap.
* Test any protection and cleaning products on a hidden area of the leather.
* Don't keep heavy objects, such as key chains, in your pockets. Doing so will stretch the leather.
* Avoid applying hair sprays and perfumes while wearing leather.
* Don't attach pins, adhesive badges or tape to leather.
* Repair hems with a small amount of rubber cement.
Cleaning
* Gently blot liquid stains with a clean cloth.
* Winter salt stains your leather, wipe with a clean, damp cloth and dry naturally.
* Visit a professional leather cleaner for more serious stains. Normal dry cleaning methods will remove essential oils, causing the leather to crack, fade and shrink. A cleaner who specializes in leather care will use a different method to clean and condition the leather. Even this special process may cause slight variations in color, texture, and shape; so it is important to clean matching garments together.
Care When Wet
* If your leather becomes wet, allow it to dry at room temperature. (Never put leather in the dryer.) Then apply a Protectant. Buff suede with a soft towel to restore the nap.
Storage
* Store your leather coat or jacket on a wide wooden, plastic or padded hanger to help maintain its shape.
* Store leather in a well-ventilated, cool, dry place. Avoid hot areas, such as attics; or damp areas, such as cellars.
* Cover your leather with breathable cloth, like cotton sheets, when storing. Plastic bags or coverings will cause excessive drying.
* Wrinkles and creases in leather should hang out. If ironing is necessary, place heavy brown paper over the leather and use a cool to medium iron. Take care not to overheat the leather, which will cause it to shine.
* Avoid exposing leather to direct sunlight or heat for prolonged periods of time.
are those real clarks? i probably havent owned a pair in close to a year, but when i did buy them, i had about 8-10 pairs, and they came in green boxes.
i had those oily leather ones, but i dont recall them actually leaking oil at any point.
they still run about a bill a pair? (non sale)
i just bought a pair of camoflauge clarks straight from the clark site and they came in a red box like the one pictured above. i'm catching a little shit from people, but these jernts are frrrrrrrrrraaaaaaesh!!
wallabee clarks no socks!
um, i believe that the oilyness is a waterproofing treatment (clarks = england = rain ?) but someone at the factory prolly got carried away. wipe em and floss.
where did you catch those? last pair i bought (choc suede) i got on sale at shoe biz? on mission?valencia?
i have the oily ones too and they weren't all slopped up like that at all. i'd bought some other protectant to put on them but none of it ever stained my pants or socks. i would say just wipe off the exess oil and you should be good to go.
since we're on the topic, anyone know an inexpensive place i can get them resoled? my first pair is still crispy but the gummy sole is worn down.
But I'm definitely rockin' mine with socks.
I think I bought the oily ones, too, but they definitely weren't pepperonied out like the ones pictured above.
I got these from onlineshoes.com
I lucked out and caught it on the right day and it had free shipping and there was a sale on top of the sale price. I guess I saved about $30.
My concern with these is scratching the leather. The little tag flap that comes with the shoes (the wally clarks leather flap tied onto the shoelaces)...I scratched it to see if the oil came off and it turned it light brown. I'm worried the shoes will scratch like this. As mentioned in the leather care tips above, if you rub the surface, spreading the oil it covers up the marks. I don't know if I am a regular oil-my-shoes type dude. I like to put them on and brush them off every few weeks when they look dirty.
We'll see. Maybe I'll send them back and get another pair of the sand ones. Or maybe I'll save these for fancy dress up days.
Yes, I think they changed the box design. I have different variations on these last two.