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how to hook up an amp and speakers in a car

SouthCrackalackSouthCrackalack 3,853 Posts
edited July 2005 in Strut Central
hey I just came across a deal on a set of 10"s,a set of 8"s and a crappy looking 100watt+100watt max bridgable amp that I am going to throw in the trunk of my Lincoln. I am not a car audio expert by any means, so I thought i'd ask to see if anyone could help me out on the basics of installing these. I know some of you dudes know your shit..so maybe you can help. Any help is appreciated! thanks.

  Comments

  • ScottScott 420 Posts
    If you're doing this for the first time, congrats, you'll learn a lot about your car. Budget a whole weekend for this project. (If you don't want to put up with this, hit up a local car audio installer -- a legit one, not Best Buy.)

    First thing you need to know with car audio: cars come apart. You can pop out door panels, running panels, seats, carpeting etc. with a little effort (and the right tools). And they're pretty easy to put back together. Remember, cars are mass-produced to be made as efficiently as possible; deconstructing them can be just as simple.

    So once you know how to take shit apart, what do you do? Basically, you need to run RCA cables from your head unit to your amp. This gives it the audio signal needed to power the subs. Here's a good site detailing how to take your Lincoln radio out.

    The hard part is powering your amp. You need to run a power cord from the positive terminal of your car battery to the positive input on your amp. And it has to be run at least 6 inches from the RCA cable at all times, to avoid electrical noise that will lead to a buzzing sound in your subs.

    The real bitch is poking power chord from the engine bay through the firewall. In car terms, the firewall is the metal sheet that separates the engine from the dashboard & your feel. It's pretty airtight, but there are small holes filled with rubber (called "grommets") that allow wires to pass through. The trick is getting the power chord through there. I recommend using a bent wire hanger to run the chord through the firewall, under carpet, etc.

    Anyways, it can be a daunting task, but something you'll appreciate once you get it working (and why use 10" subs? You can fit some 15" speakers in your Town Car -- you'll definitely be beatin' down the block ).

    I'd recommend purchasing an amp wiring kit, which contains all the wires (including grounding the sub), cables, and clips you need. Also, reading the various tutorials available on the web will help.

    Feel free to PM me with questions. Good luck, and take some pics!
  • SouthCrackalackSouthCrackalack 3,853 Posts
    hell yeah..thanks! you dropped science for real..and that Lincoln link is the shit. I am not actually new to car audio..back in the 90s i had the two 15" fosgate punch w/ two more 12" fosgate punch subs in a Blazer w/ a a few strong ass amps and that thumped like you could imagine(setting off car alarms everywhere,etc). I have also had other smaller systems..but they were all stolen.

    but..w/ the only reason I got these 10s and 8s is because i got them for crackhead prices from a crackhead..and they are probably crackhead quality..but I just HAVE to have a lil thump in the trunk. My worry is this amp..its a shitty amp..and 100w+100W which isnt shit and isnt gonna put out the power that they need. But right now..fuck it, i just need to hear a small knock at least.

    I REALLY appreciate the detailed reply you gave, and I am going to PM for further discussion if that is cool.

    Next project is getting some nice rent a wheel rims on this beeyatch and ill be in business.
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